Jacqueline Friedrich: The Wine Humanist

WINE BY PEOPLE, FOR PEOPLE

TheMailRoom

Unless you prefer anonymity, I'll post your letters (in bold face) and my answers to them.

For US readers, please tell me which wines you're not able to find. I may be able to help.

February 18, 2008
G'day Jackie

Thanks for your advice about my reference to "hate" - it helps make me aware - no, reminds me - that Aussie humour doesn't work with Americans. (See earlier letter, below.)
Actually the simple point I was trying to make is that Australia is worlds apart from the food and wine culture and sophistication of France.....and Northern Italy for that matter (visited both last year for not long enough}. The current planning for our next trip to France will be substantially influenced by your books and your FF experiences - should have discovered your stuff earlier - it really resonates for me.

Cheers
David

Hi David,

Point well taken. In fact, when people ask me why I live in France, one of the reasons I give them -- and it's the truth -- is that the relationship to food and wine are so different here than in the United States. With the exception of certain small pockets of France, there's nothing snobby or pretentious about a sumptuous, long, well-lubricated meal. It's part of a life well lived, no matter what your social status. I think the only day we Americans have what would pass as a French Sunday lunch is Thanksgiving. No wonder it's my favorite holiday!

February 9, 2008

Jackie,

I loved your rant with regard to the tasting panel for Decanter. A similar panel did the same with Chateauneuf. John Livingstone-Learmonth wrote me that it's frustrating. By the way, you still have your notes to post on Chateauneuf.

I like what I tasted from Baudry. Past bottles tasted of Alliet have been good, though polished. I missed tasting Joguet at the Salon. How are their wines now?

Best,
Lars

Me: Thanks, Lars. I simply don't understand those results. And some of the tasters are really qualified.
Anyway, don't you think it's too late for me to post my Chateauneuf notes?
I have an ever mounting pile of notes on a number of regions that I want to post but time just flies.
Re Joguet: I've got two cartons of Joguet samples waiting for me to taste. Right now I'm working on les vins du Centre (and have just finished Coteaux du Giennois). I didn't taste at the Salon this time as I have all these wonderful samples at home and I wanted to contact a lot of people at the fair.

Hello Jackie

As someone who is wrapt in both of your books (recently discovered) and
your stories on FrenchFeast, I would hate to see blog comments 'interfering' with the flow of French Feast. FF is about one person's personal experiences and they deserve to stand alone because of your ability (gift) of expressing serious comment on seriously good wine and food, interspersed with an earthy honesty ("I could drink buckets of this wine") and sense of fun that is both refreshing and rare among wine and food writers. So many take themselves too seriously!

A seperate blog section on your website will allow bloggers to comment on your FF experiences as well as every thing else on this earth - it is not unusual for one blog comment to take on a life of its own.........159 responding comments taking the discussion to places that eventually become unrelated to the initial point.

FrenchFeast is Jackie Friedrich personified - please keep it that way.

Best wishes
David Hailes

p.s. As one who lives on the other side of the world (Australia), sometimes when I read about your wonderful French wine and food experiences shared with such interesting people, I hate you.

Me: David, thanks for this lovely email.I only wish you'd sent this to me ten days ago. You don't know how I've agonized over where to put the blog. The restructured site isn't 'live' yet so I've started switching things around. And I put all of FrenchFeast on the blog page. I may leave it there for now but I do like your point. Well, I can always change it and I'm always open to suggestions. In the meantime, might I suggest that rather than hating me, you get together with a bunch of friends, open some good bottles and make some simple, nice food?

December 28, 2007: I just noticed that Terry Theise quoted part of the following email discussion in his German wine catalogue. The email back-and-forth took place almost two years ago. I was writing the Alsace chapter of The Wines of France and tasting Champagne samples. I need to point out that I was reading Terry’s catalogue on his Champagnes and the discussion started when I found I didn’t “get” what he said he “got” from one of the wines.) (I have cut a bit of the meandering.)

Me: What's wrong with me? I've tasted two terrific Vilmart wines but only got faint wood in one and zero wood in the other (the '96 Cuvee Creation). I must say that I didn't get the smoky woodsiness you got tho I did get the lunar silvery aspect.

TT: There's nothing wrong with you; I had two entirely different impressions of the last 2 Cuvée Creation `96I've tasted.

Me: Care to share those impressions with me?

TT: I thought one was spiky and unknit and the other was more seamless and more deeply fruity. The awkward one was at the winery last May; the good oneover here in late October.

Me:The one I had was absolutely seamless, deeply fruity but also bracing, cut like a diamond, shimmering with vivacity. BTW, I think I may be going off the deep end right now with Deiss and Zind-Humbrecht!

TT: Easy to see why. I had ZH's 2002 Goldert Muscat a few weeks ago and nearly wept, it was so beautiful.

Me: But I'm getting worried about my Vilmart reactions. (Nothing unusual, I always question myself.) But I had a wonderful champagne -- although not as terroir-driven as the other cuvee I tasted -- and I didn't taste any wood. (I think Andrew Jefford questioned the use of oak combined with lack of malo. But you'll get no such complaints from me. Who is right? Is there a "right"?)

TT: Rhetorical though your question was, I offer an answer nonetheless. And the answer is: NO.

Me: You see, this is where we get into discussions of taste and it's valid, I think. After all, I've seen (famous wine couple) totally disagree about particular wines.

TT: I like to think intelligent tasters of good will are able to agree on broad matters of aesthetic values even when they disagree about individual bottles. And I also hope people like you and I can discern the difference between a matter of toe-may-toe vs. toe-mah-toe and a more fundamental disagreement. I'd say if there's something illuminating in your complex responses to Vilmart, then do please share it with us. I like wines which evoke complex responses!

Me: Well, I've polished off the Vilmart and am about to taste a Margaine rose. (You see, I DRINK all these champagnes.)

TT: If it's the same degorgement I had last May you're gonna have the very sheen charmed off your cheeks by that wine. I tasted it and a nanosecond later I had a huge crush on it.

Me: Well, I don't know if it was the same disgorgement or not. Drinking it was sheer pleasure -- and I have enuf left over for today. I think it's a really, really nice meal champagne. But it didn't do to me what the champagnes from Gimonnet, Vilmart and Larmandier-Bernier (to name just 3) do.
Re Deiss and ZH: I wonder if you agree with me on the following proposition: maybe, just maybe, there are other wines this inspired and heartstopping in the world. But I can't imagine wine being "better" than this. I mean, how much can you demand of a wine? How much can you demand of Bach? Deiss and ZH are making the vinous equivalents of the Mass in B Minor.

TT: In my German catalog {note: TT now quotes part of this discussion in his German catalogue.} I quote David Schildknecht's definition of"perfect" as "better than which cannot be imagined". David's an armchair-philosopher and is interested in the ontological aspect of the question: how can we claim there is a "perfect" wine? I think his locution grounds it in a reasonable subjectivity.
As regards your two Alsaciens, I don't drink either of them often enough to assert my "agreement" with you,but I'm inclined to agree based on my limited experience. And I know whereof you speak; I feel it often at Müller-Catoir and Dönnhoff, to name but two. Again, I'd love to see you answer your own rhetorical question "How much can you demand of a wine?" That's the kind of wine-writing I just can't read enough of. I'd also find it fascinating if you identified your own tipping-point, i.e. what exactly is it that finally convinces you a wine is "perfect"? For me, a wine enters my palate and the first thing I notice is its gestalt, followed by its innate flavor - or Flavor - followed by any intricacy it unfolds, followed by a sense of the harmonies of those elements, followed by a sense of their length. And all of these things can amount to a sort of hypothetical "perfection", but my own tipping point is a feeling of sadness. This is an aspect of my own response to beauty - or,again, Beauty - to which I'm especially sensitive. When I feel the wine has sent me somewhere, or perhaps taken me somewhere, larger, older and deeper than itself, then I feel the presence of the sublime. And that is my marker for perfection. It's no accident your analogy was to religious (i.e. divine) music. Or so I suppose.

Me: Maybe it’s the laywer in me but "better than which cannot be imagined" is flawed: one can have a failure of imagination. Also, I'm not sure that "perfect" is the right word. It's like scoring 100. And it leaves out the very important factor of “context.” I might, for example, find that a certain Touraine Gamay was "perfect" for an autumn Sunday picnic with rillettes and goat cheese on a hill in Candes St Martin overlooking the confluence of the Loire and the Vienne. I think contex may be key, at least when you're using numbers or words like "perfect." is the Mass in B Minor 'perfect'? Is Van Gogh 'perfect'?
One of the problems -- as we all well know -- is finding the words to describe intensely sensual and subjective experiences. I use the word subjective in a restricted sense.
I do believe that there are objective standards -- for painting, music, wine, etc. but once we agree on those, then the value or reaction beyond the basics becomes subjective.
I have just finished the Margaine and have tasted a somewhat disappointing but nevertheless tasty Cote Rotie. So maybe that definition would work with a little tweaking: better than which people with broad, deep experience cannot imagine. But let's ditch the word 'perfect.' it's too loaded and reminds me too much of numbers. Also, think about how we judge beauty in humans: Elle McPherson is "perfect;" Brad Pitt is "perfect."
Are you sorry you started all this?

TT: In a sense I don't care what we call it, and I agree with your wariness about "perfect". But maybe we have to find SOMETHING to call it, I think. And we have to describe it somehow, so that people have a chance to see what we mean. For me it is a quality of incandescence. And you're absolutely right, it isn't like comparing a 100-watt with a 60-watt bulb and saying the 100-watt is X-percent "better" or closer to some notion of perfection. It is something that suddenly blazes into light.

Not sorry at all: this is the most fun I've had in weeks.

December 24 - 28, 2007 Dear Jackie,

Although I never tasted '97 Banneret, I like your choice for "Wine of the Year." Back in March, I met Madame Vidal by chance and later visited her at the domaine. I knew about this special barrel and the tragic story of her son.

As regards destemming and old-fashioned wine-making (in the best sense), I would put Jean-Paul Versino at the top of my list. His wines have soul. They also have a similar blend as Banneret and Vieux Telegraphe, though the latter destems most grapes.

Merry Xmas and Happy New Year!

All the best,
Lars

Me: I've thanked Lars personally. I've also asked him -- and now you -- to send comments/reactions concerning so-called traditional methods of vinification.

Jackie,

Thanks, too. I'm glad you posted it. It's a thorny issue to destem or not-to-destem. The other day, I read a review from Clive Coates in regard to Jayer. The latter supposedly felt it brought nothing to the finished wines. Then again, DRC ferments with whole bunches.

In Chateauneuf, I can only think of a handful that still ferment this way: Versino, Banneret, Clos des Brusquieres, and Pegau. Even longtime traditionalists such as Clos des Papes (since '93 vintage), Le Vieux Donjon, or Mont-Olivet destem now.

Although it's not my style and obvious self-promotion, would you add my last name and link http://moselwinemerchant.com/ to my earlier post. You never know if a viewer might have an interest in our portfolio.

Sincerely,
Lars
P.S. Clos des Papes: 100% destemmed; Clos du Mont-Olivet: since a few years partial (flexible) destemming; Le Vieux Donjon: roughly half destemmed since '97, '04 all grapes were removed.

Me: What about Henri Bonneau? And are you really sure about Pegau?

Hello
Enjoyed your diary.
I am a relatively small wine importer in Bermuda and import a good number of Loire wines , including several of your favorites. I put on a number of wine dinners each year and wondered whether you would ever consider a visit to talk about the region . Specifically I was thinking about a few dinners over the course of a few days. Perhaps a visit could be combined with a trip to the US as we are only a couple of hours away from the East Coast. We would provide accomodation and airfare from the US . I also assume you have a speaking fee. Let me have your thoughts on this. My web-site is www.bermudawine.com.
Best regards

John Sharpe

Me: I've responded to John personally but would like to pass on something I said to him: I rarely get to the United States. If you and a group of friends would like me to put together a wine tour of the Loire or another French region for you, let me know.

Dear Jackie
A group wine trip to the Loire sounds interesting . I will sound out a few people. Funnily enough I have only been to the US once since 9/11 myself. Something to do with George Bush !
All the best
John

Me: Everything to do with George Bush!

December 13, 2007:
Dear Ms. Friedrich, I have enjoyed your books,and articles and now pleased to find your web site. having enjoyed many trips to French wine country, and mail ordering many of those wines from various importers and wine stores around the USA, I became determined to buy and ship some wine home. This required surmounting many obstacles, the state where I live would be impossible, finding a shipping company, and of course finding an estate that would provide the export papers. Of course my complete lack of French didn't help either! One year it was to be an English Antique shipper, but when arriving back in Paris with eight cases of Rhone wine they explained that they didn't have the proper authority to ship wine, and also, I didn't have the export papers anyway. Luckily my wife(she speaks fluently, have been a ballet dance in Ballet du Nord) and I came home thru Chicago and customs charged me 18 dollars to clear the wine. So next year we just took the shipping boxes, got the car at CDG and headed south, and passing thru Chicago, the customs officer said it wasn't even worth creating a bill and waived us thru, (eight cases in luggage, and 18 bottles carry on. But still I wanted to ship wine home, despite everyone in USA and France saying this was impossible! Finally I read a blog where a shipping company was mentioned, and I contacted a V.P. and he directed me to his station chief in Sorgues. Of course he didn't speak English but gave me on of his staff that did. We corresponded for many months, she did not think I could clear the wine, but for some reason never gave up, finally she was able to ship the wine to my chosen port via Lufthansa. Now she told me that I would have to get the export papers to ship the wine. I faxed several wineries in the Rhone, but got no response. Upon arriving in France I called her, and she again expressed doubts that I would be able to get the papers. My wife and I went to a wonderful place in Cairanne, Madame had the fax and apologized for not responding. When my wife explained what we trying to do, she called the shipping company and verified what papers where required and said no problem! I turned to my wife and told her let's just do all 12 cases right here. Picked out the wine, came back two days later, paid, loaded up and drove down to Sorgues. The wine was weighed and the bill presented, and I plucked down 800 Euros, and that's when the head man said no cash! I had been told in emails that no credit cards, but cash would be fine. Immediately, the office erupted with everyone joining in, and all I could do was smile and let my wife handle me through another fine mess! eventually calls where made and the cash accepted, and we returned home a few days later, and I drove eight hours to another state and cleared the wine with no problems. Several questions, does anyone else do this? The only way the company will ship is air freight, and now with the euro this is to much, I need a company to do it via sea shipment, would you have any suggestions? Thanks for reading...Bill Schmitt

Me: Does anyone have any ideas -- short of suggesting that Mr.Schmitt apply for an importers license? Though I think he secretly enjoys these little dramas.

December 7, 2007: First, note to Ed Paladino: No, my publisher never told me about your kind offer to come to your shop for book signings. No surprise there. I've taken to referring to them as Flat Tire Press. But the point is moot as I haven't been to the USA in nine years!

And now Lordtroglodyte follows up:

Bon Jour,

Thank you for your response. Now that I know you are there I will take some time and try and paint a bigger picture. I have spent three months living in Montsoreau and I find having a five liter box of white wine on hand perfect for an occasional glass and for cooking. We got a Brocard Chablis here in a three liter box many years ago but it was a one time thing. It seems to me it would be cheaper to ship BiB then bottles. I found my wines have still good acidity a month later. Between Pierre-Jacques Druet, The Cadys, the Baumards, the Joguets, etc, my baggage is spoken for.

I was in Montsoreau April, May, and September. I was told July and August are the main concert seasons. I will return again in April and will try to return in July this year. With any luck the sewer will be hooked up by April. The lady at the campground charged four euros for a shower but the guy said just wait until she's not looking. Worked for me.

I had wonderful meals at the Unicorn and next to the church in Candes. In Saumur this old cabbie from Paris has a 9 euro 90 meal. The house looks like the Bates motel. [an old brothel as legend has it] It is on the river just west of the main roundabout next to the cinema. Great local flavor but student grub. Not to be missed once and time may be running out. I find from Montsoreau my world goes toward Saumur and not Chinon. In reading your blog I sense you live more towards Chinon.

I will return in April until mid May. I would love to meet you if you are in the area. The Sunday market in Montsoreau is wonderful for an Oyster breakfast by the river. I would also be up for any wine events/tastings if you would allow me tag along.

Thanks, and talk to you later. Phil

Me: Thanks, Phil. I've been asking around to see if any large-ish structures send BiBs to the USA. No responses as yet. Will keep you posted.
Fontevraud's concert season is fairly long and pretty active around Easter. You might get their schedule. (It's probably available online.)

I suspect panic about finishing Loire #2 will have set in by springtime so I'll be pretty much of a hermit. But you can always reach me here.

December 2, 2007
Hello Ms. Friedrich,
Last year I got lost and bought seven caves behind the gas station in Montsoreau. Why can't I get any Loire box wine here in Los Angeles and what can I do there in the evening except sneak into the campground for a shower? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Phil Ross

Me: (For the purposes of clarification, I take the liberty of revealing Phil Ross’s various akas: Rossputin and Lordtroglodyte.)
Dear Phil,
I’m going to respond on the assumption that your email was serious. First, Bravo! Getting lost behind the gas station at Montsoreau takes talent. I thought I was the only human similarly gifted with a negative sense of direction.
Next, why would you want to buy BagInBox Loire wine in Los Angeles? The cost of transportation alone would make it one of the worst ratios of price-to-quality you’re likely to find. If you really want that Loire BiB, I suggest visiting your caves more often, buying some sur place and schlepping them back to LA with you – in your bag that goes into cargo of course.
Evening activities: if you’re impassioned by troglodyte caves, know that you’re not alone. There are a number of societies with names like Les Amis des Troglodytes who hold reunions, conferences etc. You might meet some like-minded people. Also, Touraine and Anjou have ambitious concert and conference series. Check out the Chateau of Montsoreau, Fontevraud Abbey, Candes St. Martin, Chinon in general and, in summer, les Jeudis Jazz, and so forth. Word of advice: you can probably make a deal with the campground to use their shower while you’re waiting to install plumbing in your cave.
Hope this helps.

August 24, 2007
Dear Ms. Friedrich,
My wife and I are off to the Dordogne for our summer holiday staying just outside Bergerac for a fortnight. We enjoy wine and I have been devouring information from your site and trying to order The Savvy shopper guide in time!!!
We are hoping to visit either Chateau Latour or Lafite Rothschild so we can see what it's like at the "top"end of the industry but were looking for some mid priced (10 to 15 Euros a bottle) to lower priced (5 to 7 Euros) suggestions so we can afford to stock up with a few cases and have something great to drink on a regular basis. We buy between 60 and 100 litres or so, most of which is for drinking over the coming year but will also buy a mixed case (or two if funds allow!!) of better quality (20 Euros upwards) wine for high days and holidays. I have an old favourite from Chateau Peytirat just outside Bergerac and one in St George St Emilion that I will be buying a case from again. We enjoy St. Emilion wines but lack the knowledge to pick out anything from the other domaines in and around Bordeaux.
If you could suggest a good shop in the area who will deal with someone wanting to buy relatively small amounts and a few chateaux who are not yet commanding "top" end prices we would be very grateful.

Many thanks for your help and for the help your site gives.
Chris and Tracey Robinson

Me:Here are twelve recommendations. Most of them will be in the 12 to 20 euro range, though domaines like Chateau la Colline may have entrée de gamme cuvees that cost less.
Offhand I don’t know of good shops in Bergerac but I can try to get some information for you. When are you leaving?
Also, in my recommendations I’ve stayed within the areas you mentioned. There are other possibilities in the Dordogne (and the Lot) for reasonably priced wines. For example, Clos Coutale makes a delicious, under 10 euro Cahors, as do Chateaux La Caminade and Cosse-Maisonneuve.

Details on all of the recommended domaines -- as well as a slew of other possibilities -- are in my book, The Wines of France. Have you tried Amazon or WHSmith?

Bergeracais:
Clos des Verdots
Chateau Moulin Caresse
Chateau Barde les Tendoux (look for this in the local Leclerc)
Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure
Chateau la Colline (owned by a Welsh iconoclast)
Chateau Tour des Gendres

Bordelais:
Domaine de l’A: Cotes de Castillon
Chateau Puygueraud: Cotes de Francs
Chateau Reignac: Bordeaux Superieur
Chateau Clauzet (St. Estephe, very fine and very reasonably priced)
Clos Puy Arnaud: Cotes de Castillon
Chateau la Prade: Cotes de Francs

Bon voyage and happy tastings!

August 2007

Responses to the news that there will be a new edition of the Loire book.

I wake up on my birthday to find that you will have an updated "Loire" book published. One of my all-time favorite books. Wow! I guess it's happy birthday to me! Thanks for all your hard work. I keep both of your books with me everywhere I go and I give them as gifts. A huge fan. John-Ohio P.S. Glad you now have "high speed." You're going to love it.

Me: I do love it (high speed) and thanks for your comment!

On 8/08/07 4:38 PM, "Steven Lanum" wrote:
I, for one, would love to see a new edition of this book (asap, before these wines catch fire and their prices increase). I refer to the first edition regularly, even though Loire Valley wines ex-Sancerre are barely available in the Bay Area (though we now seem to have reliable supplies of the likes of Huet, Chidaine, and Alliet). But here's a tip in all seriousness: go to John Livingston-Learmonth's website, www.drinkrhone.com, and read, on the home page, of his experience in revising his tome on Northern Rhone Valley wines. In essence, he devoted years to the project (also published by UC Press) and says that so far he's earned something like $4000 for all his efforts. I don't know if that's a UC Press thing, a Northern Rhone thing, or something else, but I have his book, find it as comprehensive as yours, and was pained to learned that someone worked that hard for what probably equates to about $1 an hour. Obviously I hope you do a lot better.

Your latest book, in which I am still unearthing witty nuggets on a regular basis, will be with me in Paris for the month of October and will make the rounds of most of the wine shops recommended therein (plus La Cave Insolite, about which I have also heard good things). I look forward to many new discoveries.

Cheers and good luck! --Steve Lanum

Me: Steve,

Thanks for the encouragement. A couple of comments:

While waiting for the new version of the Loire book to come out, please check my Loire notes on my website.

I must check out John's website. (I love his Rhone book.) Regarding payment, he said the same thing in the Circle of Wine Writers journal. The amount most of us authors get paid is distressingly low. We clearly wouldn't do what we do for anything but love.

As I'm sure you know, the Cave Insolite is owned and run by Francois Chidaine and his wife.

From Steve
On 8/8/07 7:18 PM, "Steven Lanum" wrote:

Two more things:

I'm sure your readers would like to know, if such a thing can be predicted, when they might expect to see the new edition in print. I'll mark my calendar!

Also, your site mentions that you offer to guide visitors on an afternoon's crawl through wine bars in Paris. Please let me know what that runs (for one or two people).

And I hope YOU don't mind, but I recommend your book on a friend's website where I am the so-called wine columnist: http://www.blissfulkitchen.com/articles/article_naturalwines.html

Me: I don't know if the Chidaines are the owners of the Paris shop. I was thinking of the shop in Touraine.

The new Loire book probably won't be out for at least two years. But I'll keep readers up to date on my website. And, of course, you're free to ask questions.

Unless you're a rock star or an oil magnate, the wine bar crawl is probably too expensive for one or two people. If you can put together a group of, say, six, however...

And, please, keep telling people about the book as well as about my website.

From Lars Carlberg:Jackie,

I'm happy for you and will pass the word to friends who enjoyed reading your older edition. It seems you landed a good publisher, as well. No constraints, I assume.

Suggestions? I don't really have any now. Besides, the Loire is not my expertise. I think it's a great opportunity, because the area is becoming more recognized and admired. Burgundy is too expensive. Bordeaux the same and more commercial. The Rhone has become somewhat popular. As in all regions, alcohol levels are on the rise and northern climes have a better chance with the onset of global warming.

Best,
Lars

June 2007
Hi Jacqueline,
I stopped and picked up a bottle last night and got online to find out more.
It wasn't referenced in your books, but a retailer in Columbus, OH wrote up a nice piece for Memorial Day that seems almost like fiction.
It's at this link: http://blog.serendipitywineshop.com/2007/05/27/everyday-is-memorial-day-for-pierre-ragon.aspx Older tasting notes provided by the importer are here at this link: http://weygandtmetzler.com/producershtml/ragon.htm
John-Perrysburg, Ohio
P.S. I received my maps from Anthenaeum the same week I ordered them. Thanks for the help.

Me:Glad to have helped re the maps. I'm sorry I can't yet reproduce the hyper link. I'm learning. I'll get there soon -- I hope.

May 2007 De : "Peter Brown"
A : info@jacquelinefriedrich.com
Objet : The Wines of France

Dear Jacqueline,
I'm so glad I posted an entry on Jancis Robinson's purple pages quoting your Loire book. Your response alerted me to the existence of "The Wines of France" , which I bought immediately via Amazon UK. Its very good, exteremely well designed and your opinions agree with mine where I can check them. So I'm sure you will lead me to many good things I dont know.

Though Ten Speed Press has done a good job for you I would comment that their UK agent has done a lousy marketing job. I'm an avid reader of all wine related information, scan various websites, read journals and I'd never seen a mention of your book here. I would have picked it out instantly as I've owned the Loire book since shortly after it was published. Anyway, I've got it now and I can see myself buying copies as presents for friends.

Me: Thanks, Peter, for the encouraging words. And advance thanks for getting the word out. I'll send a copy of your e-mail to Ten Speed. I was amused to read the extensive quote on Joly from my Loire book in your post on Jancis's site.

Jacqueline,

Where in the world have I been!

I own and regularly drink a few quality Loire Valley wines when I'm able to get them here in the midwest. Last week, having decided to make this year 2007, (the rest of the year anyway), my "year of the Loire" when drinking wine, I bought your "Wine & Food Guide..." I was blown away. After looking at it for only a half hour I decided to order 2 more copies for friends. Today at my office I received your "Wines of France..." Now somone is going to have to pick me up off of the floor. I can't wait to get home and spend time with it. I may just have to leave the office early!

I read frequently but unfortunately for me, I've overlooked your writings until now. I just wanted to let you know how useful they will be and how much I'll be recommending your books and website to all my friends. I feel like I've just discovered gold in my backyard.

Thank you for all your hard work. I intend to make the best use of it. Forget my "year of the Loire." Your books inspire me to spend a much, much longer time there.

Sincerely,
John-Ohio
P.S. Are you remotely aware of any color "vineyard maps" of the Loire similar to the Pitiot & Poupon maps of the Cotes de Nuits/Beaune that I might be able to hang on the wall?

Me: Thank you, John. It's always heartening to hear from enthusiastic readers. Regarding the maps, I think the Poupon maps are the best but I'm not sure they're still available. You might try checking with the Atheneum book shop in Beaune. (Let me know if you need the address. But you should be able to get it on internet.) Also, I have a map sitting next to me that is pretty good. The information given is as follows: Atlas de la France Vinicole L. Larmat. 65, rue Montmartre, 75002 Paris. tel: (0)1.42.36.20.83. I don't know whether or not this address is still valid but, again, the internet should help.

Your website is outstanding! It is such a pleasure to read for someone like me who has always loved the Loire, and I plan to very quickly a) get the book b) use your tasting notes extensively and c) take one of your tours. I live in London, so getting to Paris isn't a problem. Do you conduct your wine bar crawls on weekends? How much do you charge?

There is only one wine merchant in London who gives the Loire the credit it deserves: its called RSJ (they have a French restaurant of the same name) and here is the website:

http://www.rsj.uk.com/rsjretailintro.htm

They invite growers from the region and hold tasting dinners - would be fantastic if you did one such in London. In fact, I'm going to suggest it to them.

Cheers,
Rajeev Joshi

ME: Many thanks Rajeev. The Loire book is a bit dated by now. I will probably be writing an updated version -- more on that when contracts are signed -- but, in the meantime, The Wines of France is pretty current with regard to producers, particularly when supplemented with info on this site.

Re Tours (of wine regions), Tastings, Wine Bar Crawls: Nothing planned at the moment but, if you can get a group together, contact me and we can work out the details. Price will depend on many factors, eg how many you are, how many wines you want to taste, how many wine bars you want to visit, whether or not a meal should be included. So feel free to get back to me.

Jacqueline,

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading your Wine and Food Guide to the Loire as a reference in advance of a trip a group of us are taking to the region starting next week. I recognize that the edition I have was printed back in 97, and that some of the recommendations regarding restaurants might not apply today. After our group visit Domaine des Baumards next Thursday, I have booked us into Les Tonnelles - largely based on your positive comments and your inviting description of the town of Behuard. Just wondering if you've been there more recently and if you'd still recommend it? I also note that you didn't make any reference to restaurants or shops in the town of Saumur itself - where we are to be based (the Anne d'Anjou). Any suggestions? ( If you more important things to do with you time than respond to some fairly trivial questions I understand! In any event - I love your book and look forward to an updated edition soon!)

Regards,
Cathy Martin

Me: Thanks, Cathy. Let me take things point by point. First, Behuard is not a village but an island, an enchanted island. It's pretty much of a pilgrimage site for me.When I was doing my research in Anjou I always went there to chill out.
Les Tonnelles does have very good food and a very good wine list. For me, however, much of its charm is due to its location. If the weather's fine, ask to sit outside, under the tonnelle. (Service could be better but the food is good enough and the location is magical so you've made the right choice.)
Saumur recommendations are tougher. My feeling about the town is that the best place to eat is outside of it. If you wanted to picnic, Saumur has a great Saturday market and a number of nice food shops. Where eating out is concerned, Saumur has a lot of adequate but unexciting restaurants. For something fun and different, not to mention delicious, my choice would be les Caves de Marson in Rou-Marson, about a fifteen minute drive from the center of Angers. It hasn't changed since I wrote about it in the Loire book -- where you'll find a description on page 356.
I hope to be updating the Loire book. In the meantime, you'll find updated info regarding producers in my new book, The Wines of France.
Have a great trip and give my best to the Baumards!

March 2007
Hi Jacqueline,
I have been enjoying your web site immensely! Way to GO!
After reading both your books, I bought some various bottles of Domaine l’Ecu 2005. We had a bottle of “Cuvee Classique” tonight. If do you see Guy Brossard, would you please give him a hug and thank him!
Happy in Vancouver Canada!
Brian Sohn

Me: Thanks Brian. I expect to see Guy and Annie Bossard in April. Happy to transmit the hugs!

January 2007

Me:Mystery Reader, Reveal Thyself! Some very clever person -- with excellent taste -- has written a review of my book on Amazon. (The title is so good, I wish I'd thought of it myself.) It's signed "A Reader." I think I know who it is but, hey, why not reveal your identity? You'll probably find other dog lovers on this site, including yours truly.

Hello--I am "A Reader" in San Francisco if that's the amazon.com review you are referring to. Every time I dip into the book I am delighted (as well as frustrated by what I'll never be able to find). Based on your recommendation I grabbed a bottle of 1997 Domaine Cady Cuvee Volupte last week ($40 here), and it was sublime. Last weekend I tasted all the 2005 Huet secs and demi-secs and they were otherworldly. Wish I could afford boatloads. And thanks for calling me clever!
Based on your Christmas entry you write about people as well as you write about wine.
Cheers.
P.S. Wow, I must be dense (or the 2004 Foillard Morgon I'm drinking
must have gone to my head) but I only just figured out the dog reference--you looked at my other reviews.

Me: Steve Lanum, I knew it was you! Clever is only part of it. For starters, your title (if memory serves, A Wine Guide Hater’s Guide to French Wine) is really brilliant. Sounds like you’re drinking some wonderful stuff. Don’t despair about the wines you think you won’t find. First, they may get to the west coast; second, you may get to France and taste them here.
If I ever finish the Gardening Day entry I’ll move on to New Year’s. I must say that I’m a bit embarassed that I drink such (relatively) modest stuff compared to the trophy wines other bloggers describe having drunk over the holidays. But not only are these wines scrumptious and well suited to the context, IMHO they also have quite a lot to say. In any event, I should finish both narratives – with, I hope, some good wine recommendations – in time for the Salon des Vins de Loire. (And you can be sure I’ll have plenty to say about that.)
Now about those dogs: Yes, I looked at some of your other reviews and, while I share your appreciation of lieder, I’m nuts about dogs. Since I travel all the time I can’t have a dog and consider myself dog deprived. I have been known to borrow dogs.

December 2006

Hi--
While reading your description of your new book did not particularly pique my interest for some reason, I had the good fortune to see a copy in a bookstore and took a few moments to leaf through it. Thank goodness I did because I've really enjoyed reading your insights
about wines and regions that are both familiar and unfamiliar to me.
If only all of the wines you praise (especially those from the Loire
Valley) were available in the U.S. Most 'wine guides' are all but useless drivel but this one makes great reading--so much so that I'm neglecting the rest of the book pile.
Also of interest to me was your reaction to Eric Asimov's review.
I'm in agreement with him in that I, too, feel that you show a marked preference for 'hypernatural' wines as you describe them (along with waterfalls!), but I consider that an extremely positive aspect of the
book. Indeed, if I hadn't sensed such an emphasis I'm not sure it would have been of as much interest to me.
(I can see why Kermit Lynch would write a cover blurb for you--all of his producers are in the book! That's OK; his shop is my no. 1 source for wine.)

Cheers.

--Steve Lanum

(A:Hi Steve,

Thanks for writing.

When you refer to the wimpy description of my book I assume you’re referring to the paragraph that ends with the sophomoric advice to sit back with a glass of pweee fweeesay.

I’m both pleased and chagrined to hear that. Pleased, because I HATE that paragraph too. Chagrined because I have been trying – obviously without success – to get the publisher to remove it.

Moving on to hypernatural wines. I really don’t have a marked preference for them. I spend a lot of time on them because, though you’d never know it from most wine media in the US, it’s an extremely important trend. I also admire what motivates the winemakers in question. But this is a risky form of winemaking – possible problems include rapid oxidation, brettanomyces, refermentation in bottle and on and on. My hope is that these winemakers will keep their idealism but make less fragile wines.

As for waterfall: mea culpa. It’s one of my biggest compliments.

As for Kermit Lynch: it seems we have similar palates. I’m honored to include myself in that “club.” For the record, I knew and loved many of the producers in question before I learning that Kermit imported them. And I think he’d be the first to tell you that I turned him on to Bernard Baudry.)

Mme Friedrich,

While living in southern Belgium on a 5 year military assignment, I accidentally became acquainted with the wines of Loire when someone recommended I might enjoy a bottle of 1997 Françios Pinon Moelleux. Never a great admirer of white wines let alone white sweet wines, the wine was an awakening for me. From that point on I have had been infatuated by the Loire Valley and its wines. Part of that experience was coming across your book in a Belgium book shop. Now residing back in the US, when I am among friends who enjoy nice wines, they are often surprised and puzzled, when I tell them… the greatest wine experiences I’ve had are the wines of Loire and Alsace. Thanks for your book on the wines of Loire, I refer to it constantly. I’m waiting for an equally well written book on Alsace…and hoping it will be written by you.

Regards,

Dan

(A: Dan, thanks for the lovely letter. Francois Pinon is, indeed, a wonderful winemaker -- and his wines offer some of the best values in Vouvray. You'll find him in my new book "The Wines of France" which updates my evaluations of the producers of the Loire. While I'm not planning a book specifically on Alsace, I do spend a lot of time there in "The Wines of France." Like you, I adore the wines from that often overlooked region. Some of the most brilliant and memorable wines I've ever tasted come from its Grand Cru vineyards. And let's hear it for sweet wines, too! I often think that people would fall in love with them if they actually tasted a good one -- just like you did. And they're so useful -- great as an aperitif, super with many, many savory dishes, sublime with lots of cheeses, and occasionally marry well with a desserts though I'm not a big fan of sweet on sweet.)

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