Jacqueline Friedrich: The Wine Humanist WINE BY PEOPLE, FOR PEOPLE; WINE FROM THE HEART

Selected Works

Wine Guide
The Wines of France: The Essential Guide for Savvy Shoppers
An indispensable, user-friendly guide to France’s best and best-value wines. Don’t leave home without it!
Wine & Food Guide
A Wine & Food Guide to the Loire
The first and only in-depth guide to the wines and foods of the Loire.
Tribute to Didier Dagueneau
My various reflections on Didier Dagueneau compiled and posted here.
For Those Who Want Yesterday's Papers
Article Archives
My Previously Published (and retrievable) Articles
Website Supplement
Friends and Their Stories
A guide to the people who make frequent appearances in FrenchFeast and their gastronomic (or other) tales.
Wine Tours
WINE TOURS
WOULD YOU LIKE ME TO PLAN YOUR TOUR OF A FRENCH WINE REGION?

Jackiezine: Whatever is propelling the windmills of my mind.

Remember, You're Alone in the Kitchen

October 4, 2009

Tags: peaches, ratafia, harvest, canning

Writing Loire2 and dealing with the abundant harvest in my garden has taken up all of my time recently. That and dentist appointments. Now the tumult of the garden is dying down. It’s basically just walnuts and apples now and the last of the cherry tomatoes and some green tomatoes that I’ve already given up on.
So I’m trying to deal with the bounty that I’d already gathered and that was sitting there in cartons, making me feel guilty while the fruit, itself, quickly and was surely deteriorating.
The future plum brandy is fermenting. Last Sunday I made peach jam. Today I made peach ratafia today and a number of mini-disasters arrived, trying to use up those quickly rotting but initially so-delicious-I-can-no-longer-buy-peaches-in-the-market peaches.
I was using a recipe from Helen Witty’s “Fancy Pantry.” First, I peeled the peaches with a knife, thus managing to savage bits of very ripe peach from very blemished pieces of fruit.
Then the recipe called for cooking the sugar with water and letting it boil for 3 minutes, then letting it cool before adding the brandy.
While the sugar mixture was cooling, I set about removing the kernels from the pits of the peaches. Or trying to. I had never done this before.
I got a hammer and a cutting board and set a peach pit down on it and smacked it. Nothing. This went on for a good bit of time with no better results. I tried a nutcracker. Nyet.
Then I got the brilliant idea to take the hammer and the peach pits outside and smash them on the cement paving (fashioned to look like artisanal tiles). This did work though a number of pits jetted into the garden and quite a few kernels were damaged. Still, I got my kernels, whole or not.

I went inside to test the sugar mixture. It was still hot. So I waited, not even a minute, before testing it again. I looked in the pan and saw a solid sheet of caramel-colored, what?, caramel? Petrified sugar?
I should have thought to add more water and bring the mixture to the boil again but I wasn't thinking. Instead, I just plowed ahead and added most of the brandy with the hopes that stirring would loosen the mass.

It didn’t. So then I got an even stupider idea. I decided to heat it up a bit. Of course, this did loosen the sugar but it also set the brandy aflame. And as there was quite a bit of brandy, with a high % of alcohol, the fire was not about to go out quickly. (The brandy was marc from Charles Joguet’s Dioterie vineyard in Chinon, back in the day when Charles was still there.)

I finally got the bright idea to add the flaming brandy to the peaches and their kernels. This did work.

But I'm wondering if the ratafia is now safe from botulism and other dangers. I figure the original amount of brandy would kill off any chance of botulism. But since I burned off a good amount of that alcohol, I don't know if enough is left. I did add the one cup of brandy I hadn't 'flamed' to the mix afterwards.

For reasons beyond my ken, I am paranoid about botulism. So now I’m worried that the percentage of alcohol isn’t high enough. I’ve sent urgent emails to two chef friends hoping they can help me out.

If you have any ideas, I’d be happy to hear them.

Comments

  1. October 5, 2009 3:42 AM EDT
    I added this comment myself. Worried about botulism, I wrote to my friend, the wonderful Odessa Piper, and asked for help. Her answer: You do need a helping hand I think. Just glad you didn't burn down the kitchen. Ok so for starters, 3 minutes is 3 minutes. for the sugar and water to turn to a solid sheet means that it got to " hard crack", which takes a little longer. Perhaps le chef was un peu occupied? I do applaud your quick thinking to put out the fire with the peaches (btw, I want some of this 'brew' when I come out next) . To keep well, the peaches need to be seeped in the sugar syrup at high heat throughout to keep from spoiling, and the alcohol of the brandy will preserve it further. If the overall combination of sugar and brandy is not diluted with anything other than the water content in the peaches, the less alcoholic version you have will not breed anything deadly. The worst that can happen is that the fruit will oxydize and taste dull . I can't quitre envision the final result, and how much alc. escaped form the mix first time round to advise you with absolute authority- so best bet is to invite friends over and drink it down quickly and start over again, tho after the effects of the first batch have totally been metabolized. xoxoxoko
    - jacqueline friedrich

A young, attractive, quasi-urban -- aka modern-looking -- couple was chosen deliberately. She approaches as he is eating a slice of Lou Perac while his sheep graze. She says, "Is it for Lou Perac that you come this far?" He answers, basically,"You get the best milk from here and you need the best milk to make the best cheese."
She replies, "Sometimes I think you care more about your sheep than about me."
He just looks at her.

PLAYLIST


Nit-pickers snarked at Obama's having given the Queen of England an iPod. Turned out she asked for one. He filled it with videos of her trips to America. Knowing that "Oklahoma" is her favorite musical, Obama also gave the Queen a rare book of Richard Rodgers' music.

I posted this song for Maureen Fant because we refer to her husband Franco as "the lion" and when we're all driving somewhere in the car we usually end up singing the song. Franco usually starts it. And the reason the song came to mind is that MSNBC posted a clip from The Today Show with really cute baby lions on it. They played The Lion Sleeps Tonight in the background. Now I better do something serious -- like taste some chenin blancs.

Kind of fitting that Obama chose to quote lyrics from a depression-era song.
BTW, if you watch the clip to the end, when the second couple dances, you'll get an idea of my ballroom competence.

LAUGHTER IS THE BEST MEDICINE


Of the hundreds of email jokes about the election that have been sent to me, I think this is my favorite.